REVIEWS & PRESS

Americans grab a piece of Hermitage
by Jon Bonné
Friday, November 16, 2007

The tiny French appellation of Hermitage makes some of the world's best Syrah, but at just 320 acres, there's not much to go around.

So it was a bit of a coup when two Americans snagged access to a scant three acres: John Schwartz, who with Heidi Peterson Barrett runs the Amuse Bouche winery, and Danielle Price, wine director at Wynn Las Vegas. The result is the 2005 Cheval Fou ($125), grown biodynamically with help from their local partner - none other than Michel Chapoutier, whose Rhone wines are already the stuff of legend.

It's not the first joint project for the two, who earlier this year launched Coup de Foudre, a Napa Valley Cabernet with a spiffy peel-back label. The Cheval Fou label isn't as flashy, but the wine is surprisingly lean and approachable for an Hermitage, with all the classic aromas of brown spice and pepper.

Crazy Horse was named for a certain Paris, um, cabaret that flew in the face of French officials' endless campaigns to eradicate English idioms from public life. In the spirit of transatlantic harmony, we suggest you pair it with le bifteck, a side of freedom fries and a choice of entertainment that we'll leave to you. lechevalfouwine.com.